Shedding Light on Dark Circles
by Linda Georgedes

Jeepers, creepers, where’d you get those… dark circles?! Dark circles are prevalent on all skin colors and types, but are especially common among those with excess pigmentation in the skin. But where do they come from?

While most people like to chalk dark circles up to a telltale sign of exhaustion—or perhaps even the unsightly evidence of a binge involving one too many margaritas—the underlying cause of those under-eye shadows may not be what you think.  Here are a few of the truths about how dark circles make their mark—and what you can do about them.

—CAUSES—-

Chronic lack of sleep. Insomnia? Frequent air travel and crossing time zones? Expect your skin to appear paler, which allows blood vessels to be more visible through the skin, giving the appearance of bluish or dark circles. Try to get eight hours a night. Sleeping too little, then trying to catch up on the weekend, will not help.

Allergies. Chemical irritations. If you’re sensitive to pollen dust and pet dander or other airborne substances, the appearance of dilated blood vessels that sit close to the thin under-eye skin can worsen.  Hay fever and food allergies or sensitivities can also contribute. In addition to exploring and removing the irritants causing your allergies, antihistamines prescribed by your allergist can help control the problem.

Also, when applied too close to the eye area, topical acne medications can cause temporary darkening.

Fluid retention/Thyroid Problems/Iron deficiency. Conditions that cause fluid retention (e.g. heart, thyroid, kidneys, liver diseases) or medications that cause blood vessel dilation may be a factor contributing to the “raccoon effect.”  Blood vessels under the eyes can become dilated and engorged, which can contribute to dark circles.  Excess dietary salt and smoking are common causes. And yes, that includes clove cigarettes, and exposure to second-hand smoke.  No ifs, ands or butts here: Just quit! Iron deficiency anemia may also cause a bluish tinge below the eyes.

Age.  The skin under the eyes is thin and delicate to begin with.  As we age, skin and the fat pad under the eyes become thinner, causing blood vessels to become noticeable.  Sun damage can make it worse because it weakens the skin.

—SOLUTIONS—

Stay fit and healthy. Fat cells seem to boost the body’s production of estrogens, which causes the skin to become sensitive to the sun and darken as a result. Cutting back on salt, reducing your fat, carbohydrate and sugar intake and exercising regularly will help reduce body weight and water retention.    Be sure to stay hydrated and limit your intake of caffeine and alcohol. As your health improves, your eyes will gradually clear and so will your self-esteem!

Protect Your Eyes.  Slather on the 45 SPF and be sure to wear sunglasses that provide sufficient protection to your eyes and surrounding areas.  Failure to wear sunglasses during a short episode of sun or ultra-violet exposure (rainy and overcast days) can cause the delicate tissues around the eye to darken dramatically. 

Don’t forget that popular topical preparations, including retin-A, cause sun sensitivity. Even oral anti-diabetic drugs, antibiotics, diuretics, blood pressure medications, hormone replacement, anti-inflammatory, certain painkillers, anti-depressants and oral contraceptives can increase photosensitivity.

Take your (topical) vitamins.  Vitamins A, D, E, and K have long been touted as a healer of skin, keeping skin lubricated and pliable—and particularly great for eyes since we do not produce oil in that area. 

After cleansing, try an ultra-thin film of Vitamin C serum: Vitamin C is well known for its antioxidant properties that will fight the aging process with a vengeance. It also has a great “brightening” effect for dark circles.  Topically applied vitamin C also increases the skin’s immunity to UV radiation and firms the tissues around the eye by increasing dermal thickness.

Every night use Auriderm vitamin K eye cream and every other night, in the absence of irritation, apply an ultra-thin film of mild lightening complex and/or vitamin A based retinol safe enough for the delicate skin in the orbital eye area. Vitamin K has known benefits to lighten dark circles under the eyes.

You must gradually wean the skin onto these products, taking care to apply every sparingly, rubbing in well until all traces have vanished.  Follow directions and then use even less.  More is NOT better, and may cause temporary problems.  Starting out every second or third night and following application with an excellent emollient eye cream will reduce the risk of irritation and excessive dryness. 

Go herbal.  Natural ingredients are a great way to treat a sensitive area like the eye not just for their tremendous therapeutic effects but also for their gentle approach.

Ginkgo balboa improves the blood flow under the eyes. Botanical antioxidants including green tea, red tea, and grape seed can also be found to soothe the skin and work against free-radical damage. Anti-inflammatory botanicals like azulene, chamomile and colloidal, as well as minerals like copper, magnesium and cobalt can reduce puffiness and swelling around the eye area.

Pump & Lift.  Finally, for those of you who aren’t sure why you have dark circles, topical products that contain a plumping agent or alpha hydroxy acids like Hyluronic are great for plumping lines and giving eyes that dewy glow. Also, Hydroquinone will inhibit the skin’s ability to make pigment.

Along similar lines, you can slow down the signs of aging and preserve healthy tissue with peptides, which act as building blocks for the skin, diminishing sagging skin around the eyes.

By Linda Georgedes, CME

As you weather the cold-weather dry skin storm, try these six simple tips for dewy, youthful skin all winter.

1. Don’t overheat.  
Keep heat no higher than 68 degrees during the day. For those prone to super dry skin, use a humidifier.  It’s a great way to add extra moisture to the air.  And finally, be sure to keep showers short (and not too hot) and opt for wet steam baths over dry saunas whenever possible.   

2. Stay hydrated.  
Increase water intake dramatically. 
Proper liquid hydration is directly linked to your skin’s ability to exfoliate properly.  Without proper hydration, you’ll end up with wrinkled skin and dead skin – a double whammy! Drink one extra cup for each serving of coffee, tea and alcoholic beverage. Herbal teas and flavored sparkling water qualify as part of you water intake. Be sure to triple your water intake when you are taking any cold and allergy medicines, sleep aids and/or antibiotics. 

3. Exfoliate by shaving.  
Yes, you heard right: shave! The process leading to the loss of dead skin is termed desquamation.  In healthy skin it is an orderly and essentially invisible process.  As we get older sometimes the process needs a little help.   The rub is that exfoliating too aggressively causes more harm than good.  This is why I prefer shaving. Shaving the face exfoliates those dead cells by removing several layers of skin, which allows moisturizers to deeply penetrate the skin and also aid in forestalling the aging process. It is a myth that the rate of hair growth or the color or length of your hair with increase.  Believe it and try it!

4. Change your cleanser.  
Cease the gels and switch to a milder cream-based version.  Combining your creamy cleanser with Niacin will add a definite plus to your program. One of my favorite items for the dry season is the Clarisonic skin brush.  It is unbelievably non-irritating while providing a very high level of desquamation to the epidermis.  

5. Moisturize. 
Use three times of amount of moisturizer you used in the summer months.  
The goal of a moisturizer is to increase skin water content, improve skin smoothness and decrease symptoms of itching, stinging, and burning. There is however, very little medical evidence that would prove that one moisturizer is particular more beneficial than another.  Some have added ingredients that promote better skin health but the price tag can be staggering.  Physicians agree that protecting the skin from transepidermal water loss is a key component in this process and believe it or not PLAIN PETROLEUM, applied in a thin coat works wonders to stop the water loss and protect dry and fragile skin in any inclement weather conditions.  USE IT! 

6. Get Professional Help.   
Dead skin build-up combined with oiliness is a chronic condition that is often part of the sensitive dry skin profile, which worsens in cold weather and when you are under stress.   For severe conditions, make an appointment with the clinic as soon as possible. You will probably need at-home usage of an enzyme peel.  But for severe build-up (hyperkeratosis), you may need prescription medications to help dissolve stubborn dead skin cells.  For severe redness, swelling or inflammation that can sometimes accompany this disorder, we may prescribe oxygen mist, vitamin C solution or zinc to speed healing.

While you weather the winter dry skin storm, remember these suggestions and you will look and feel great.  Exfoliating, hydrating and protecting your skin from water loss are the key components to a glowing, youthful complexion.

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